Thursday, December 29, 2011

Fruitcake Weather

The Christmas holiday has always been a time filled with tradition and memories for me. I sense that I am not alone in feeling this way.

My cherished Christmas memories are many, thanks in great part to my parents who, even today though they are now in their mid seventies, have not lost their excitement for making something special each for us holiday.

Christmas crafting was always been a part of our Christmases. I guess this is due in part because we always seemed to have more heart than cash. As the Christmas holiday draws near each year, we invariably start thinking "What can I make to give this holiday?"

Sometimes crafting was done for solely decoration. I remember as a child stringing (and eating) bowls of popcorn. I remember making sugar cookies that we would hang on our tree. These days I still like to have friends over at the beginning of each Christmas holiday to make wreaths.

Not unlike our Christmas holiday this year, I remember one Christmas when I was just three years old, My Dad and I built the train set mountain scene made of Chicken wire and paper mache. The mountain was painted by my mom and covered with sponge trees all done with the hope that Santa might bring us a train that year. And you know what? He did!

Music and television specials are also an integral part of my holiday experience. For some of us, watching our favorite television specials is as important as attending the church services.

I need only to hear a few strains of Vince Guaraldi's score from "A Charlie Brown Christmas" and my heart leaps. What is Christmas without Charlie Brown?

My former wife still tells of how devastated she was as a child in the 1960's when she awoke from her nap only to learn that her parents had let her sleep through the annual airing of "A Charlie Brown Christmas program. Remember, this was back in the day when a Christmas special was just that - special. This was years before VHS players or DVDs. Back then, specials aired only once a year. If you missed it, you missed it. And when you are a kid, the year that separates each Christmas seems like an eternity.

One Christmas special I remember watching as a teenager was a rebroadcast of Truman Capote's "A Christmas Memory". It tells the story of a young Truman Capote and his cousin Miss Sook's last Christmas together. In addition to the story of their wonderful relationship Truman had with is cousin, I loved that they saved all year to buy what they needed to make their annual Christmas presents.

Truman Capote was many things to many people.


I know what you are thinking: Fruitcake right?

Many think of Truman Capote as being "a fruitcake" of sorts. But you need only take a moment to read his prose to see what a genius he really was. So, before I write any more, I invite you find out for yourself just what I mean. Please treat your self and take some time to read and savor Truman Capote's "A Christmas Memory."

(A grainy black and white version of the television program starring Geraldine Page and narrated by Truman Capote is currently available for watching on youtube. At the end of this post, you will also find an audio recording of Truman reading his story.)

A Christmas Memory

Imagine a morning in late November. A coming of winter morning more than twenty years ago.

Consider the kitchen of a spreading old house in a country town. A great black stove is its main feature; but there is also a big round table and a fireplace with two rocking chairs placed in front of it. Just today the fireplace commenced its seasonal roar.

A woman with shorn white hair is standing at the kitchen window. She is wearing tennis shoes and a shapeless gray sweater over a summery calico dress. She is small and sprightly, like a bantam hen; but, due to a long youthful illness, her shoulders are pitifully hunched. Her face is remarkable—not unlike Lincoln’s, craggy like that, and tinted by sun and wind; but it is delicate too, finely boned, and her eyes are sherry-colored and timid. “Oh my,” she exclaims, her breath smoking the windowpane, “it’s fruitcake weather!”

The person to whom she is speaking is myself. I am seven; she is sixty-something. We are cousins, very distant ones, and we have lived together—well, as long as I can remember. Other people inhabit the house, relatives; and though they have power over us, and frequently make us cry, we are not, on the whole, too much aware of them. We are each other’s best friend. She calls me Buddy, in memory of a boy who was formerly her best friend. The other Buddy died in the 1880s, when she was still a child. She is still a child.

I knew it before I got out of bed,” she says, turning away from the window with a purposeful excitement in her eyes. “The courthouse bell sounded so cold and clear. And there were no birds singing; they’ve gone to warmer country, yes indeed. Oh, Buddy, stop stuffing biscuit and fetch our buggy. Help me find my hat. We’ve thirty cakes to bake.”

It’s always the same: a morning arrives in November, and my friend, as though officially inaugurating the Christmas time of year that exhilarates her imagination and fuels the blaze of her heart, announces: “It’s fruitcake weather! Fetch our buggy. Help me find my hat.”

The hat is found, a straw cartwheel corsaged with velvet roses out-of-doors has faded: it once belonged to a more fashionable relative. Together, we guide our buggy, a dilapidated baby carriage, out to the garden and into a grove of pecan trees. The buggy is mine; that is, it was bought for me when I was born. It is made of wicker, rather unraveled, and the wheels wobble like a drunkard’s legs. But it is a faithful object; springtimes, we take it to the woods and fill it with flowers, herbs, wild fern for our porch pots; in the summer, we pile it with picnic paraphernalia and sugar-cane fishing poles and roll it down to the edge of a creek; it has its winter uses, too: as a truck for hauling firewood from the yard to the kitchen, as a warm bed for Queenie, our tough little orange and white rat terrier who has survived distemper and two rattlesnake bites. Queenie is trotting beside it now.

Three hours later we are back in the kitchen hulling a heaping buggyload of windfall pecans. Our backs hurt from gathering them: how hard they were to find (the main crop having been shaken off the trees and sold by the orchard’s owners, who are not us) among the concealing leaves, the frosted, deceiving grass. Caarackle! A cheery crunch, scraps of miniature thunder sound as the shells collapse and the golden mound of sweet oily ivory meat mounts in the milk-glass bowl. Queenie begs to taste, and now and again my friend sneaks her a mite, though insisting we deprive ourselves. “We mustn’t, Buddy. If we start, we won’t stop. And there’s scarcely enough as there is. For thirty cakes.”

The kitchen is growing dark. Dusk turns the window into a mirror: our reflections mingle with the rising moon as we work by the fireside in the firelight. At last, when the moon is quite high, we toss the final hull into the fire and, with joined sighs, watch it catch flame. The buggy is empty, the bowl is brimful.

We eat our supper (cold biscuits, bacon, blackberry jam) and discuss tomorrow. Tomorrow the kind of work I like best begins: buying. Cherries and citron, ginger and vanilla and canned Hawaiian pine-apple, rinds and raisins and walnuts and whiskey and oh, so much flour, butter, so many eggs, spices, flavorings: why, we’ll need a pony to pull the buggy home.

But before these purchases can be made, there is the question of money. Neither of us has any. Except for skin-flint sums persons in the house occasionally provide (a dime is considered very big money); or what we earn ourselves from various activities: holding rummage sales, selling buckets of hand-picked blackberries, jars of home-made jam and apple jelly and peach preserves, rounding up flowers for funerals and weddings. Once we won seventy-ninth prize, five dollars, in a national football contest. Not that we know a fool thing about football. It’s just that we enter any contest we hear about: at the moment our hopes are centered on the fifty-thousand-dollar Grand Prize being offered to name a new brand of coffee (we suggested “A.M.”; and, after some hesitation, for my friend thought it perhaps sacrilegious, the slogan “A.M.! Amen!”).

To tell the truth, our only really profitable enterprise was the Fun and Freak Museum we conducted in a back-yard woodshed two summers ago. The Fun was a stereopticon with slide views of Washington and New York lent us by a relative who had been to those places (she was furious when she discovered why we’d borrowed it); the Freak was a three-legged biddy chicken hatched by one of our own hens. Every body hereabouts wanted to see that biddy: we charged grown ups a nickel, kids two cents. And took in a good twenty dollars before the museum shut down due to the decease of the main attraction.

But one way and another we do each year accumulate Christmas savings, a Fruitcake Fund. These moneys we keep hidden in an ancient bead purse under a loose board under the floor under a chamber pot under my friend’s bed. The purse is seldom removed from this safe location except to make a deposit or, as happens every Saturday, a withdrawal; for on Saturdays I am allowed ten cents to go to the picture show.

My friend has never been to a picture show, nor does she intend to: “I’d rather hear you tell the story, Buddy. That way I can imagine it more. Besides, a person my age shouldn’t squander their eyes. When the Lord comes, let me see him clear.”

In addition to never having seen a movie, she has never: eaten in a restaurant, traveled more than five miles from home, received or sent a telegram, read anything except funny papers and the Bible, worn cosmetics, cursed, wished someone harm, told a lie on purpose, let a hungry dog go hungry. Here are a few things she has done, does do: killed with a hoe the biggest rattlesnake ever seen in this county (sixteen rattles), dip snuff (secretly), tame hummingbirds (just try it) till they balance on her finger, tell ghost stories (we both believe in ghosts) so tingling they chill you in July, talk to herself, take walks in the rain, grow the prettiest japonicas in town, know the recipe for every sort of oldtime Indian cure, including a magical wart remover.

Now, with supper finished, we retire to the room in a faraway part of the house where my friend sleeps in a scrap-quilt-covered iron bed painted rose pink, her favorite color. Silently, wallowing in the pleasures of conspiracy, we take the bead purse from its secret place and spill its contents on the scrap quilt. Dollar bills, tightly rolled and green as May buds. Somber fifty-cent pieces, heavy enough to weight a dead man’s eyes. Lovely dimes, the liveliest coin, the one that really jingles. Nickels and quarters, worn smooth as creek pebbles. But mostly a hateful heap of bitter-odored pennies.

Last summer others in the house contracted to pay us a penny for every twenty-five flies we killed. Oh, the carnage of August: the flies that flew to heaven! Yet it was not work in which we took pride. And, as we sit counting pennies, it is as though we were back tabulating dead flies. Neither of us has a head for figures; we count slowly, lose track, start again. According to her calculations, we have $12.73. According to mine, exactly $13. “I do hope you’re wrong, Buddy. We can’t mess around with thirteen. The cakes will fall. Or put somebody in the cemetery. Why, I wouldn’t dream of getting out of bed on the thirteenth.” This is true: she always spends thirteenths in bed. So, to be on the safe side, we subtract a penny and toss it out the window.

Of the ingredients that go into our fruitcakes, whiskey is the most expensive, as well as the hardest to obtain: State laws forbid its sale. But everybody knows you can buy a bottle from Mr. Haha Jones. And the next day, having completed our more prosaic shopping, we set out for Mr. Haha’s business address, a “sinful” (to quote public opinion) fish-fry and dancing cafe down by the river. We’ve been there before, and on the same errand; but in previous years our dealings have been with Haha’s wife, an iodine-dark Indian woman with brassy peroxided hair and a dead-tired disposition. Actually, we’ve never laid eyes on her husband, though we’ve heard that he’s an Indian too. A giant with razor scars across his cheeks. They call him Haha because he’s so gloomy, a man who never laughs. As we approach his cafe (a large log cabin festooned inside and out with chains of garish-gay naked light bulbs and standing by the river’s muddy edge under the shade of river trees where moss drifts through the branches like gray mist) our steps slow down. Even Queenie stops prancing and sticks close by. People have been murdered in Haha’s cafe. Cut to pieces. Hit on the head. There’s a case coming up in court next month. Naturally these goings-on happen at night when the colored lights cast crazy patterns and the Victrolah wails. In the daytime Haha’s is shabby and deserted. I knock at the door, Queenie barks, my friend calls: “Mrs. Haha, ma’am? Anyone to home?

Footsteps. The door opens. Our hearts overturn. It’s Mr. Haha Jones himself! And he is a giant; he does have scars; he doesn’t smile. No, he glowers at us through Satan-tilted eyes and demands to know: “What you want with Haha?

For a moment we are too paralyzed to tell. Presently my friend half-finds her voice, a whispery voice at best: “If you please, Mr. Haha, we’d like a quart of your finest whiskey.”

His eyes tilt more. Would you believe it? Haha is smiling! Laughing, too. “Which one of you is a drinkin’ man?

It’s for making fruitcakes, Mr. Haha. Cooking.

This sobers him. He frowns. “That’s no way to waste good whiskey.” Nevertheless, he retreats into the shadowed cafe and seconds later appears carrying a bottle of daisy-yellow unlabeled liquor. He demonstrates its sparkle in the sunlight and says: “Two dollars.”

We pay him with nickels and dimes and pennies. Suddenly, as he jangles the coins in his hand like a fistful of dice, his face softens. “Tell you what,” he proposes, pouring the money back into our bead purse, “just send me one of them fruitcakes instead.”

Well,” my friend remarks on our way home, “there’s a lovely man. We’ll put an extra cup of raisins in his cake.”

The black stove, stoked with coal and firewood, glows like a lighted pumpkin. Eggbeaters whirl, spoons spin round in bowls of butter and sugar, vanilla sweetens the air, ginger spices it; melting, nose-tingling odors saturate the kitchen, suffuse the house, drift out to the world on puffs of chimney smoke. In four days our work is done. Thirty-one cakes, dampened with whiskey, bask on windowsills and shelves.

Who are they for?

Friends. Not necessarily neighbor friends: indeed, the larger share is intended for persons we’ve met maybe once, perhaps not at all. People who’ve struck our fancy. Like President Roosevelt. Like the Reverend and Mrs. J. C. Lucey, Baptist missionaries to Borneo who lectured here last winter. Or the little knife grinder who comes through town twice a year. Or Abner Packer, the driver of the six o’clock bus from Mobile, who exchanges waves with us every day as he passes in a dust-cloud whoosh. Or the young Wistons, a California couple whose car one afternoon broke down outside the house and who spent a pleasant hour chatting with us on the porch (young Mr. Wiston snapped our picture, the only one we’ve ever had taken).

Young Truman ( Buddy) and Miss Sook

Is it because my friend is shy with everyone except strangers that these strangers, and merest acquaintances, seem to us our truest friends? I think yes. Also, the scrapbooks we keep of thank-you’s on White House stationery, time-to-time communications from California and Borneo, the knife grinder’s penny post cards, make us feel connected to eventful worlds beyond the kitchen with its view of a sky that stops.

Now a nude December fig branch grates against the window. The kitchen is empty, the cakes are gone; yesterday we carted the last of them to the post office, where the cost of stamps turned our purse inside out.

We’re broke. That rather depresses me, but my friend insists on celebrating—with two inches of whiskey left in Haha’s bottle. Queenie has a spoonful in a bowl of coffee (she likes her coffee chicory-flavored and strong). The rest we divide between a pair of jelly glasses. We’re both quite awed at the prospect of drinking straight whiskey; the taste of it brings screwed up expressions and sour shudders. But by and by we begin to sing, the two of us singing different songs simultaneously. I don’t know the words to mine, just: "Come on along, come on along, to the dark-town strutters’ ball." But I can dance: that’s what I mean to be, a tap dancer in the movies. My dancing shadow rollicks on the walls; our voices rock the chinaware; we giggle: as if unseen hands were tickling us. Queenie rolls on her back, her paws plow the air, something like a grin stretches her black lips. Inside myself, I feel warm and sparky as those crumbling logs, carefree as the wind in the chimney. My friend waltzes round the stove, the hem of her poor calico skirt pinched between her fingers as though it were a party dress: "Show me the way to go home", she sings, her tennis shoes squeaking on the floor. "Show me the way to go home."

Enter: two relatives. Very angry. Potent with eyes that scold, tongues that scald. Listen to what they have to say, the words tumbling together into a wrathful tune: “A child of seven! whiskey on his breath! are you out of your mind? feeding a child of seven! must be loony! road to ruination! remember Cousin Kate? Uncle Charlie? Uncle Charlie’s brother-inlaw? shame! scandal! humiliation! kneel, pray, beg the Lord!"

Queenie sneaks under the stove. My friend gazes at her shoes, her chin quivers, she lifts her skirt and blows her nose and runs to her room. Long after the town has gone to sleep and the house is silent except for the chimings of clocks and the sputter of fading fires, she is weeping into a pillow already as wet as a widow’s handkerchief.

"Don't cry," I say, sitting at the bottom of her bed and shivering despite my flannel nightgown that smells of last winter's cough syrup, "Don't cry," I beg, teasing her toes, tickling her feet, "you're too old for that."

"It's because," she hiccups, "I am too old. Old and funny."

"Not funny. Fun. More fun than anybody. Listen. If you don't stop crying you'll be so tired tomorrow we can't go cut a tree."

She straightens up. Queenie jumps on the bed (where Queenie is not allowed) to lick her cheeks. "I know where we'll find real pretty trees, Buddy. And holly, too. With berries big as your eyes. It's way off in the woods. Farther than we've ever been. Papa used to bring us Christmas trees from there: carry them on his shoulder. That's fifty years ago. Well, now: I can't wait for morning."

Morning. Frozen rime lusters the grass; the sun, round as an orange and orange as hot-weather moons, balances on the horizon, burnishes the silvered winter woods. A wild turkey calls. A renegade hog grunts in the undergrowth. Soon, by the edge of knee-deep, rapid-running water, we have to abandon the buggy. Queenie wades the stream first, paddles across barking complaints at the swiftness of the current, the pneumonia-making coldness of it. We follow, holding our shoes and equipment (a hatchet, a burlap sack) above our heads. A mile more: of chastising thorns, burrs and briers that catch at our clothes; of rusty pine needles brilliant with gaudy fungus and molted feathers. Here, there, a flash, a flutter, an ecstasy of shrillings remind us that not all the birds have flown south. Always, the path unwinds through lemony sun pools and pitchblack vine tunnels. Another creek to cross: a disturbed armada of speckled trout froths the water round us, and frogs the size of plates practice belly flops; beaver workmen are building a dam. On the farther shore, Queenie shakes herself and trembles. My friend shivers, too: not with cold but enthusiasm. One of her hat's ragged roses sheds a petal as she lifts her head and inhales the pine-heavy air. "We're almost there; can you smell it, Buddy'" she says, as though we were approaching an ocean.

And, indeed, it is a kind of ocean. Scented acres of holiday trees, prickly-leafed holly. Red berries shiny as Chinese bells: black crows swoop upon them screaming. Having stuffed our burlap sacks with enough greenery and crimson to garland a dozen windows, we set about choosing a tree. "It should be," muses my friend, "twice as tall as a boy. So a boy can't steal the star." The one we pick is twice as tall as me. A brave handsome brute that survives thirty hatchet strokes before it keels with a creaking rending cry. Lugging it like a kill, we commence the long trek out. Every few yards we abandon the struggle, sit down and pant. But we have the strength of triumphant huntsmen; that and the tree's virile, icy perfume revive us, goad us on. Many compliments accompany our sunset return along the red clay road to town; but my friend is sly and noncommittal when passers-by praise the treasure perched in our buggy: what a fine tree, and where did it come from? "Yonderways," she murmurs vaguely. Once a car stops, and the rich mill owner's lazy wife leans out and whines: "Giveya two-bits" cash for that ol tree." Ordinarily my friend is afraid of saying no; but on this occasion she promptly shakes her head: "We wouldn't take a dollar." The mill owner's wife persists. "A dollar, my foot! Fifty cents. That's my last offer. Goodness, woman, you can get another one." In answer, my friend gently reflects: "I doubt it. There's never two of anything."

Home: Queenie slumps by the fire and sleeps till tomorrow, snoring loud as a human.

A trunk in the attic contains: a shoebox of ermine tails (off the opera cape of a curious lady who once rented a room in the house), coils of frazzled tinsel gone gold with age, one silver star, a brief rope of dilapidated, undoubtedly dangerous candylike light bulbs. Excellent decorations, as far as they go, which isn't far enough: my friend wants our tree to blaze "like a Baptist window," droop with weighty snows of ornament. But we can't afford the made-in-Japan splendors at the five-and-dime. So we do what we've always done: sit for days at the kitchen table with scissors and crayons and stacks of colored paper. I make sketches and my friend cuts them out: lots of cats, fish too (because they're easy to draw), some apples, some watermelons, a few winged angels devised from saved-up sheets of Hershey bar tin foil. We use safety pins to attach these creations to the tree; as a final touch, we sprinkle the branches with shredded cotton (picked in August for this purpose). My friend, surveying the effect, clasps her hands together. "Now honest, Buddy. Doesn't it look good enough to eat!" Queenie tries to eat an angel.

After weaving and ribboning holly wreaths for all the front windows, our next project is the fashioning of family gifts. Tie-dye scarves for the ladies, for the men a homebrewed lemon and licorice and aspirin syrup to be taken "at the first Symptoms of a Cold and after Hunting." But when it comes time for making each other's gift, my friend and I separate to work secretly. I would like to buy her a pearl-handled knife, a radio, a whole pound of chocolate-covered cherries (we tasted some once, and she always swears: "1 could live on them, Buddy, Lord yes I could—and that's not taking his name in vain"). Instead, I am building her a kite. She would like to give me a bicycle (she's said so on several million occasions: "If only I could, Buddy. It's bad enough in life to do without something you want; but confound it, what gets my goat is not being able to give somebody something you want them to have. Only one of these days I will, Buddy. Locate you a bike. Don't ask how. Steal it, maybe"). Instead, I'm fairly certain that she is building me a kite—the same as last year and the year before: the year before that we exchanged slingshots. All of which is fine by me. For we are champion kite fliers who study the wind like sailors; my friend, more accomplished than I, can get a kite aloft when there isn't enough breeze to carry clouds.

Christmas Eve afternoon we scrape together a nickel and go to the butcher's to buy Queenie's traditional gift, a good gnawable beef bone. The bone, wrapped in funny paper, is placed high in the tree near the silver star. Queenie knows it's there. She squats at the foot of the tree staring up in a trance of greed: when bedtime arrives she refuses to budge. Her excitement is equaled by my own. I kick the covers and turn my pillow as though it were a scorching summer's night. Somewhere a rooster crows: falsely, for the sun is still on the other side of the world.

"Buddy, are you awake!" It is my friend, calling from her room, which is next to mine; and an instant later she is sitting on my bed holding a candle. "Well, I can't sleep a hoot," she declares. "My mind's jumping like a jack rabbit. Buddy, do you think Mrs. Roosevelt will serve our cake at dinner?" We huddle in the bed, and she squeezes my hand I-love-you. "Seems like your hand used to be so much smaller. I guess I hate to see you grow up. When you're grown up, will we still be friends?" I say always. "But I feel so bad, Buddy. I wanted so bad to give you a bike. I tried to sell my cameo Papa gave me. Buddy"—she hesitates, as though embarrassed—"I made you another kite." Then I confess that I made her one, too; and we laugh. The candle burns too short to hold. Out it goes, exposing the starlight, the stars spinning at the window like a visible caroling that slowly, slowly daybreak silences. Possibly we doze; but the beginnings of dawn splash us like cold water: we're up, wide-eyed and wandering while we wait for others to waken. Quite deliberately my friend drops a kettle on the kitchen floor. I tap-dance in front of closed doors. One by one the household emerges, looking as though they'd like to kill us both; but it's Christmas, so they can't. First, a gorgeous breakfast: just everything you can imagine—from flapjacks and fried squirrel to hominy grits and honey-in-the-comb. Which puts everyone in a good humor except my friend and me. Frankly, we're so impatient to get at the presents we can't eat a mouthful.

Well, I'm disappointed. Who wouldn't be? With socks, a Sunday school shirt, some handkerchiefs, a hand-me-down sweater, and a year's subscription to a religious magazine for children. The Little Shepherd. It makes me boil. It really does.

My friend has a better haul. A sack of Satsumas, that's her best present. She is proudest, however, of a white wool shawl knitted by her married sister. But she saysher favorite gift is the kite I built her. And it is very beautiful; though not as beautiful as the one she made me, which is blue and scattered with gold and green Good Conduct stars; moreover, my name is painted on it, "Buddy."

"Buddy, the wind is blowing."

The wind is blowing, and nothing will do till we've run to a Pasture below the house where Queenie has scooted to bury her bone (and where, a winter hence, Queenie will be buried, too). There, plunging through the healthy waist-high grass, we unreel our kites, feel them twitching at the string like sky fish as they swim into the wind. Satisfied, sun-warmed, we sprawl in the grass and peel Satsumas and watch our kites cavort. Soon I forget the socks and hand-me-down sweater. I'm as happy as if we'd already won the fifty-thousand-dollar Grand Prize in that coffee-naming contest.

"My, how foolish I am!" my friend cries, suddenly alert, like a woman remembering too late she has biscuits in the oven. "You know what I've always thought?" she asks in a tone of discovery and not smiling at me but a point beyond. "I've always thought a body would have to be sick and dying before they saw the Lord. And I imagined that when he came it would be like looking at the Baptist window: pretty as colored glass with the sun pouring through, such a shine you don't know it's getting dark. And it's been a comfort: to think of that shine taking away all the spooky feeling. But I'11 wager it never happens. I'11 wager at the very end a body realizes the Lord has already shown Himself. That things as they are"—her hand circles in a gesture that gathers clouds and kites and grass and Queenie pawing earth over her bone—"just what they've always seen, was seeing Him. As for me, I could leave the world with today in my eyes."

This is our last Christmas together.

Life separates us. Those who Know Best decide that I belong in a military school. And so follows a miserable succession of bugle-blowing prisons, grim reveille-ridden summer camps. I have a new home too. But it doesn't count. Home is where my friend is, and there I never go.

And there she remains, puttering around the kitchen. Alone with Queenie. Then alone.

("Buddy dear," she writes in her wild hard-to-read script, "yesterday Jim Macy's horse kicked Queenie bad. Be thankful she didn't feel much. I wrapped her in a Fine Linen sheet and rode her in the buggy down to Simpson's pasture where she can be with all her Bones....").

For a few Novembers she continues to bake her fruitcakes single-handed; not as many, but some: and, of course, she always sends me "the best of the batch."

Also, in every letter she encloses a dime wadded in toilet paper: "See a picture show and write me the story." But gradually in her letters she tends to confuse me with her other friend, the Buddy who died in the 1880's; more and more, thirteenths are not the only days she stays in bed.

A morning arrives in November, a leafless birdless coming of winter morning, when she cannot rouse herself to exclaim: "Oh my, it's fruitcake weather! "

And when that happens, I know it. A message saying so merely confirms a piece of news some secret vein had already received, severing from me an irreplaceable part of myself, letting it loose like a kite on a broken string.

That is why, walking across a school campus on this particular December morning, I keep searching the sky. As if I expected to see, rather like hearts, a lost pair of kites hurrying toward heaven.

This story has inspired me for years. So it was with great pleasure that this year I was finally able to have my own Fruitcake Christmas memory.

It all started because of a special lady named Frances ( Rangie) Otey. She is Jim's grandmother and she is a fantastic cook. Even at her spry 90 years of age, she shows no signs of slowing down. Any meal she serves is sure to be a delight.

Frances (Rangie) Otey

I love reading through the worn cook books of the cooks I admire because by looking thorough the pages you can tell which recipes the owners have made time and again. You are also likely to see hand written notes on certain recipes that tell how the owner of the book may have altered the recipe over time.

It was while looking through Rangie's collection of cookbooks that I found her battered copy of "The Boston Cooking School Cook Book" by Fannie Merritt Farmer (yep, that Fannie Farmer). This was the cookbook that Rangie was given when she was married. The book by this time was falling part and only held together with rubber bands. Knowing how precious this book was to her and her entire family, I offered to repair the book and later rebound it for her.

It was while was repairing Rangie's cookbook that I came across her hand written recipe for White Fruitcake. Fruitcakes have gotten a bad rap over the years, but I am here to tell you that a good fruitcake can be delicious. What's more, there are many sophisticates around just like me, who still enjoy eating them.

This white fruitcake that Rangie makes is a little different from the traditional fruitcake that most of us are familiar with. The white fruitcake contains coconut. It is also lighter in color, texture and flavor than the traditional dark fruitcake (which is made with browned flour that has been toasted in the oven). What's more, when Rangie makes her fruitcake, she omits the bitter tasting Citron and adds in extra rasins.

I had heard about this fruitcake for years, and now that I had the recipe, I knew one day I would make it. It was during our lunch at Thanksgiving of this year that I suggested we bake the fruitcakes together this Christmas. Rangie and her husband Charles (Pop) were very excited by the idea and we set a date.

Traditionally, fruitcakes are made well in advance and allowed to age. During the aging process, the cakes are brushed with whiskey periodically. I found these cakes to be quite nice fresh and they only seem to get better with time, whether brushed with whiskey or not. ( Not being a fan of whiskey, I brushed mine with Disaronno instead.

Ready to try Rangie's White Fruit Cake?

Here is Rangie's hand written recipe for White Fruit Cake


Here is a step by step guide to how we made the cakes this year.

We started out by weighing and then mixing together in a very large pot : the nuts ( a 2 pound combination of walnuts and pecans), one pound of fresh coconut (we bought frozen fresh coconut in the grocery store's frozen food section), and a one pound combination of white raisins, dark raisins, red and green candied cherries, candied pineapple, candied orange and diced dates.


Next we creamed together the 2 pounds of room temperature butter with the 3 cups of sugar. Once the sugar and butter mixture had become light and fluffy, we added in the room temperature eggs one at a time.


We then sifted together the 6 cups of flour and the 3 teaspoons of baking powder. Next we added the flour mixture to the wet ingredients in small batches alternating with the liquid. The recipe called for whiskey, but as I mentioned earlier, I am not a fan of whiskey, so I used Disaronno instead. If you prefer you can also use orange juice or apple cider instead of the whiskey.

Once the flour and the wet ingredients were totally combined, it is time to add in the nut and fruit mixture. This makes a tremendous amount of batter and will require a very large bowl to contain it. We used a large, tall pot like the kind you might boil corn in. The batter will be thick.


All was stirred together until thoroughly combined.


We then lined the bottoms of your baking pans with cut out parchment paper (or use paper bags) coated with cooking spread.


This recipe makes 9 pounds of batter. To be certain all our cakes baked evenly, we weighed the batter using a cooking scale and divided it out evenly between our pans.





For decorative effect, we topped the batter with cherries and nuts before baking.


The recipe calls for baking the cakes "in a slow oven". Normally this means an oven set to 325 degrees.


Cooking time will vary depending on your oven. Our cakes took almost two hours to finish baking. Cakes are done when your tester ( use a tooth pick) comes out clean.


These cakes are heavy and will take a while to cool. Allow these to cool before removing them from the pans.


Allow to rest on a wire rack.


There is a saying that goes, "My family has more nuts than a fruitcake". The person who said that probably never had a fruitcake like Rangie's!



I do hope you will give Rangie's White Fruitcake a try. It is likely to be the best you ever tasted and, for those of you who think you don't like fruitcake, this one might just be the one that changes your mind.

One final treat. Here is a a hard to find recording of Truman Capote reading his "A Christmas Memory". He is not only a gifted writer, he is a wonderful narrator.

Merry Christmas!!

A Christmas Memory Part One


A Christmas Memory Part Two

Sunday, December 25, 2011

Mama's Little Baby

"There you will find a baby, sleeping in a manger"

The Christmas story of Jesus's birth is a familiar one to many. Even a small child of three can tell you the story of Mary, Joseph and baby Jesus and that very first Christmas they spent in a barn because there was no room in the inn.

What a way to make an entrance hmm?

A lesser known story is that of Hilary, John and Alison's first Christmas when they found themselves stranded out in the cold. Well, sort of anyway.


Imagine having no where to go. No where to stay.

The story I want to tell you about happened on a cold and windy Christmas Eve night in 1990.

After spending a late evening celebrating the coming Christmas holiday with the Fechino clan, proud new parents John and Hilary Fechino returned to their modest home in Richmond Virginia along with their young baby daughter Alison only to find that there was no heat in their house.

Don't be fooled by the cozy glow of the Christmas lights. It was cold in there!

The thermometer in the small home only confirmed what they felt as soon as they walked in the door. The house was cold. Really, really cold. And it was too late at night to do anything about it.They knew that they could have gotten back in the car and returned to John's parents's house, but this was their first Christmas as a family and they really wanted to spend it their own home. Even though thermostat registered just 58 degrees, the young family decided to climb into bed together in an attempt to keep warm.


Baby Alison dressed in her flannel sleeper.

The parents dressed little Alison in her flannel sleeper. Then Mom and Dad, in an attempt to make it through the cold, dark night dressed in their warmest sweat clothes. But the parents's concern for their young child's safety, and due to the quickly dropping temperature in their home, it was impossible for them to sleep. They knew what they had to do. They, much like the famous family in Bethlehem, had to find shelter where the family would be safe. And they had to do something quickly.

Guided by a bright light high in the northern sky (a light that we now know was just a street light), the brave family of three donned their winter coats and traveled out into the night. Luckily, safe refuge from the brutal weather was to be found just next door.

There they found a warm place to stay at the home of Miss Marjorie Drumm. And lucky for the outcast travelers, instead of being forced to sleep on a bed of straw in her garage along with her 1985 Buick, Marjorie offered them a warm and cozy sofa bed in her living room.

The next morning, a lone wise man answered the call and came to help the young family. After puttering with the family's furnace for what amounted to about 3 minutes, he was able to provide the gift of heat to the family in exchange for a bunch of gold and silver (okay they paid him with a check but how romantic does a check sound??). It was a Christmas miracle!! It seems as though there was nothing really wrong with the furnace after all. The pilot light simply needed to be lit. The wind from the night before had blown it out.

So by now you are probably asking yourself is this the super warm and fuzzy "feel good ending" to the Christmas story? What do you think? Well, I will tell you. There is a an even brighter, more wonderful part of this story that you still don't know about. Stick with me.

Here's the rest of the story.

You see, the kind and loving Marjorie Drumm, that warm and generous woman who took in the poor family who found themselves out in the cold, had up until the time the night visitors arrived, spent her Christmas eve all alone.

Marjorie, an only child whose parents had long since died, had no immediate family members. And although she had been engaged to be married twice, she had never married.


Mother and Child. Marjorie Drumm and her mother Margaret.

For many years Marjorie had enjoyed every Christmas holiday in the company of her dearest friends Bill and Winnie Hale and their children. But this year was different. Winnie had died of cancer earlier that year leaving Bill and his family devastated by her passing.

The Hale family decided to spend their first Christmas without Winnie out of state at the home of one of Bill and Winnie's daughters. Marjorie, although invited to tag along, had decided to stay in Richmond that year and spend Christmas alone.

And all alone she would have been that Christmas eve night if not for the strong cold wind that blew out the pilot light to our furnace.

While anyone else might have been bothered by having to welcome neighbors into their house at three o'clock on Christmas morning, Marjorie was delighted to have the young neighbors she loved so very much spend even just a few hours with her that Christmas.

When we arrived at her door, I remember her jokingly asking, "Who is it?" To which I replied, "Just Joseph, Mary and the baby. Any room in your Inn?"

When I think back on that Christmas so long ago, there are many things I remember. I remember how cold we were that night. I remember how concerned we were for Alison's safety. And I remember feeling helpless and not knowing what to do or where to turn.

But what I also remember, and cherish most of all, was the warm and loving embrace that Marjorie gave me when she opened her door and found us huddled together on her door step. It may have been years ago now, but for me, that embrace is not just part of my Christmas past, it will forever be my Christmas present.

Marjorie no longer spends Christmases alone. She, Winnie and Bill are now all in heaven and I am sure they are enjoying their Christmases together once again.


Marjorie Drumm, circa 1940

Thank you again Marjorie for sharing a very special Christmas night with me and my family 21 years ago. Bless you.

Mama's Little Baby loves Shortenin', Shortenin', Mama's Little Baby Loves Shortenin' Bread!

It is now 2011 and our little baby girl Alison is all grown up. Alison is a woman now but she is not so grown up that she no longer enjoys making (and eating) her favorite Christmas cookies, made of tender and buttery Shortbread.


Every Christmas Shortbread cookies are baked in our home

This recipe comes from a former co-worker of mine named Joan Thines (now Eyster). She told me that she got this recipe years ago from her dentist. The dentist's wife would make batches of these cookies and then give them out on Valentine's Day to her husband's patients.

Traditionally made of just butter, sugar and flour, these shortbread cookies are simply the yummiest, butteriest cookies you will ever eat. And they could not be simpler to make.

Hermey explains, "Some day, when I am a dentist my wife will bake cookies for all my patients!"

While the dentist ( and no, the dentist really was not a later day successful Hermey from the Rudolph story in case you are wondering. That is a different story all together) chose to give these out on Valentine's day, these cookies have become a part of my Christmas holiday baking for over 20 years now. Once you try them they are likely to be a part of your holiday cooking too from now on.

Joan Eyster's Short Bread Cookies

Ingredients:

3 Sticks of Softened Room Temperature Unsalted Butter (no substitute)
1/2 Cup of Sugar
4 Cups of All Purpose Flour
1 Teaspoon of Vanilla, Almond or Lemon Flavoring is optional

Directions:

Set out the butter and let it come to room temperature. The butter must be completely soft for best results.

Cream softened Butter (not melted, just softened) and Sugar together until light and fluffy. These cookies are butter flavored, however you can add extra flavor with the help of extracts. If you choose to add additional flavor to your cookies, you can add in your choice of flavorings at this stage. If you choose to make a lemon flavored cookie, try adding in grated lemon zest for a great affect.

Gradually add in the Flour in several batches, a little at a time. Toward the end of the mixing process, the dough will become dry and stiff. If the dough is too dry to stay together, you can add in a teaspoon or two of water. Once the dough can be formed into a ball, shape it into a thick flat disc, wrap it in plastic and then refrigerate it for three hours or over night. If you prefer to make just round cookies rather than cut out shapes, roll the dough into a log shape before pacing it in the refrigerator. Once the dough has been removed from the refrigerator, simply slice the cookie dough into round discs and bake.

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Remove the cookie dough from the refrigerator. It will be very stiff when you remove it from the refrigerator. Allow it to come to room temperature before rolling the dough out.

Place a sheet of waxed paper on the counter and sprinkle it with flour. Place the dough on the floured paper and then top the dough with another sheet of waxed paper. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough between the waxed paper until it is between 1/4 and 1/8 inch thick. Use your favorite cookie cutters, dipped in flour, to make shaped cookies.

Bake the cookies in a preheated 350 degree oven for about 20 minutes. These are ready to remove from the oven when the edges just begin to brown. Be careful not to over cook them. Allow cookies to cool completely before removing them from the baking sheet as they will crumble if you try to remove them when they are still warm.

To Frost or Not to Frost, That is The Question...

These cookies are great without frosting. In fact, some of my family members prefer to eat them without any frosting. But these cookies are also great when topped with Butter Cream frosting.

To make a simple Butter Cream frosting, start with one stick of softened room temperature butter. Using an electric mixer, whip the butter until smooth. Gradually add in one cup of Confectioner's sugar. Add in one teaspoon of extract (choose either Clear Vanilla or Lemon).

Once the first cup of Confectioner's sugar has been added in, gradually add in another cup of Confectioner's sugar. Before you are finished, you will had added in a total of two cups of Confectioners Sugar.

If making Vanilla Frosting, add in a couple of teaspoons Heavy Whipping Cream during the sugar adding stage to thin the frosting to the preferred consistency. If making Lemon Frosting, add in some Lemon zest and fresh Lemon juice instead of using the Vanilla Extract and the Heavy Cream.

Once the Frosting has been made, you can either pipe it on the cooled cookies using a bag or spread it on with a spatula. Add food coloring to color the Frosting if you like. Go wild and use sprinkles too if you want to. The only rules are to have fun and enjoy yourself.

You will find that the fragrance of these cookies when they are baking to be simply irresistible. I like to make the simple round version of the cookies and then serve them for dessert when company is expected for dinner. For a great homey touch, prepare the cookie dough in advance, then slice the dough into rounds and them place on the cookie sheet. Bake them in the oven just before your guests arrive. The fragrance of the baking cookies will drive your hungry guests wild.

My guess is Mama's little baby won't be the only one who loves these cookies. One try and I am sure you will love them too. Give them a try, won't you?


Enjoy!!

Monday, December 12, 2011

A Pair of Black Eyes!

Hmmm, it looks like Al Roker's gingerbread man features nuts.

When I think of cookies and bites, I think of , well you know, cookies that you bite. But when my son Jack thinks of cookies, he is more likely to be thinking of computer bytes and bits.

I fell in love with my children for so many reasons. As a father, I can tell you that I have found great pride in knowing that my kids and I share certain personality traits. But they also have many traits that I can only aspire to having.

A proud Dad and his son Jack.

Parent rule number one: never compare your kids to each other.

Yeah, well, okay. I confess I may have broken that rule from time to time. Hey, can you really blame me? Many times my kids were my only point of reference.

This is me around 1963, drawing pictures.

As a small child, I loved to draw and color. From the time my oldest child Alison was small, she also loved coloring and drawing. I didn't think much of it. I felt like drawing and coloring were simply things that kids like to do. But while Alison loved drawing and coloring, my youngest child, Jack, made it clear that he was not interested in drawing or coloring in the least.


Sure, like most other toddlers, Jack liked pushing paint around. But when it came time for Jack to color in a picture, that was a different story all together. He felt that coloring, regardless of whether the image was in a coloring book or a picture that someone else had drawn, was a complete waste of his time.

What's more, Jack was perfectly willing to let anyone who asked him to color something know just how he felt about it.

Case in point, I remember a grade school paper that Jack brought home that had a failing grade and a note from his teacher. Jack had answered all the questions correctly on his homework, but there was still a problem. He had refused to color in the pictures as he had been instructed. The teacher's note was in response to a note that Jack had written on his homework paper that read,"I don't color". The teacher wrote back, "Jack, the instructions were to add the numbers and color the pictures."

Later that same school year, Jack was given a fun holiday art class assignment. All the children in Jack's class were given a plain paper cut out of a gingerbread man. The class was instructed to decorate cut outs at home and then bring it back for display on the bulletin board. These were meant to become a gingerbread self portrait so to speak.


After the school's Christmas pageant, my wife , our kids and I visited each child's classroom to check out their classroom's holiday display. When we got to Jack's classroom we were greeted by some of the cutest gingerbread "children" you can imagine. The results of the art assignment were really fun and creative. Most of the children in his class had used yarn, fabric scraps, photos, glitter, magic markers and paints to decorate their cookies.

I say most because not all of the children were so inspired.

My son Jack took a more "minimalist" approach to decorating his gingerbread boy. Jack chose to simply use his pencil to draw a pair of black eyes, a curved smile, and two buttons on his cut out. He then simply called it a day. No color. No glitter. No fabric scraps or cut out photos.

Looking at Jack's black and white gingerbread boy among all the his classmates's colorful creations, we could not help but laugh about it. I seem to recall telling his mother at the time, "Well, Jack is one kid who certainly is never going to become an artist!"

This is not to say Jack was not a creative child. His medium was Lego blocks rather than paper and crayons. He was constantly making things like airplanes, cars, rockets, moon vehicles, concert stages or movie sets out of Lego blocks.

Jack and his Legos.

Fast forward ten years and we find Jack finishing up his first semester freshman year attending ...(you guessed it) art school. Jack has enrolled in Virginia Commonwealth University's (VCU) School of Art. That same child who could not be bothered with pushing a crayon when he was a small boy is now creating life sized drawings of himself and sewing gigantic soft sculptures of a MAC computer.

At times, all these art projects became a bit overwhelming for him. This is understandable when you consider that Jack was never one to do crafts, draw, paint or even color for that matter. I try to remind Jack that this school year should be all about trying new things. It's okay not to be accomplished in everything he tries. This is his time for exploration and learning about what he likes and where he does (or doesn't) have talent.

I heard once that a man's desire to reproduce is directly linked to his fear that without a teenage son, he will never be able to operate his new electronic devices.

This may be true. It was true for me. More than once I have called on Jack to help me with my computer ( yet another trait I admire in him).

Jack was always fearless with my computer.

It is a good thing Jack is so comfortable with computers. Once he is officially accepted in the art program (he finds out if he is officially accepted in the art program following the completion of his freshman year), Jack will be working mostly on his computer and will be spending much less time in the art studio. I wish him all the luck in the world and could not be more proud of him.

How about some cookies? And now I am talking about the REAL deal.

While Jack's grammar school gingerbread man may have left us with something to be desired, I have a recipe today for spicy Gingerbread cookies that are sure to please. More than once I have been complimented on these cookies with the remark, " I never really liked gingerbread cookies, but these are amazing!".

I hope you will give these a try. These are cookies I am sure to bake a least once every year at Christmas. Truth be told, these often are eaten so fast, I make more than one batch each year. In fact, I need to make another batch already this year due to the fact my first batch has already been eaten.

These cookies are so tasty, they do not need frosting, but I still like to frost some anyway.

Jack on the other hand, prefers his plain without frosting. Go figure...


John's Spicy Rolled Gingerbread Cookies

Ingredients:

5 Cups of All-purpose Flour
1 1/2 Teaspoons of Baking Soda
4 Teaspoons of Ground Ginger
2 Teaspoons of Ground Cinnamon
2 Teaspoons of Ground Cloves
1/2 Teaspoon of Salt
1 Cup of Shortening
1 Cup of Sugar
1 Egg
1 Cup of Molasses
1 Tablespoons of Vinegar

Directions:

In a large bowl, add in the Flour, Soda, Spices and 1/2 teaspoon of Salt. Using a whisk, combine dry ingredients.

Beat shortening for about 30 seconds, then add Sugar and beat until it is fluffy and completely combined. Add in the Egg, Molasses and Vinegar and beat well. Add in dry ingredients, a little at a time, until thoroughly blended. If too dry, you can add in a teaspoon of water at a time until you are able to form the dough into a ball. Divide the dough into two portions. Fashion each portion into a ball, then a flatten each ball into a disc. Wrap the discs in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 3 hours or overnight.

When ready to bake the cookies, pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease your cookie sheets or line them with parchment paper. Remove the dough from the plastic wrap. Place the dough between wax paper. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough out to about 1/8 inch thick. Cut cookies with your favorite cookie cutters and then bake for 5 to 8 minutes. Do not over bake.

These cookies need to cook before removing from the cookie sheet as they will harden as they cool. If you remove the cookies while they are too warm, they will be too soft and are likely to break apart.

For some reason, these cookies taste even better the day after you bake them. The flavor becomes more intense the next day. As I said earlier, while they are delicious plain, I like to frost them with a simple white outline. The dramatic dark brown color of the cookie contrasts so well with simple white frosting. For an added punch of color and flavor, try using red hot candies to decorate your cookies.

Give this recipe a try. When you eat these, I just know you are going to love every single bite (and that's bite spelled with an "i" Jack).

Jack says, "Trust me when I tell ya, these cookies are the best!"

Happy Holidays!